Thursday, November 10, 2016

Full On Fall

I've had a super busy fall season.  First I attended another Boro class given by Jody Alexander.  Then I took a wonderful eco printing class from Pia Best- Reininghaus sponsored by the talented felter, Marilou Moschetti.  That was fun and I learned a ton.

THEN,  I had an annual sewing retreat in San Juan Bautista with 19 of my dearest sewing pals.  And finally I went to Ashland for DOL (Design Outside The Lines) with Diane Ericson.

She is on fire right now with all new ideas and designs using remade clothing, making components for garments and designing new garment patterns.  I love everything she does.

 Marla Kazell was the guest instructor.  I wanted to take this particular DOL (not that I want to miss any of them!) because Marla would be showing couture techniques she uses in her Koos Van Den Akker-inspired jackets.

She's a terrific teacher, too.  I learned a lot from her.  She's very patient and is really there for her students.  I learned how to make triangular bound buttonholes that you'll see further down in this post.

It was full on fall color in Ashland.  My husband and I rented a condo right in town and had a great time wandering the shops and eating in the fabulous restaurants.  He took in a play and toured the three theaters since he is a playwright himself.  I just took in the sewing design magnificence in the Ashland Springs Hotel workroom.

Just a little glimpse of the fall color.  I regret not taking more photos, it was so beautiful.  


 Diane has a studio in town where we visited one afternoon to paint fabric and schmooze with Miles Frode,  her artist son who paints incredible canvas for making one-of-a-kind garments.  He's also begun making very cool coat pins.

This jeep was on the way to the studio and I had to stop.



 These candy colored trucks are one of my favorite things about driving up to Ashland.  They sit along Highway 5 and give me a belly laugh every time I see them...whaaat??

I came home with two partially completed jackets.  The fabric for this first one is from a double sided cotton; woven on one side with a bit of a waffle to it, and knit on the other.  It's a unique grey-khaki color.  I used Diane's Ventana Jacket pattern.  One thing I like about Diane's patterns is that you can adapt them in so many ways.  I didn't do too much to this one, just fiddled with the pleats and darts a bit and added a pocket to the other side.  I gotta have two pockets...what do you do with your other hand?


The darts make it so you can fit the pattern easily.  I wanted it a bit snug in the back and full in the front.

 My second jacket was made using a very heavy upholstery type fabric from Marcy Tilton.  The pattern is B5891 by Katherine Tilton.  I've used this pattern several times.   Here, I've lengthened it.  

I used three triangular bound buttonholes I made as samples with scraps of the fabric.  I liked the look of them sewn onto the garment so I went with that idea.  They're a bit wonky but I like the look.


The pattern called for in-seam pockets but I prefer inset pockets.   Inseam pockets always feel like they're set back too far for my comfort.

I decided to document how I make them, I hope this mini-tutorial helps if you've been wanting to try them.  Here goes...

First, I mark the position of where I want the pocket to be on the fronts. Using a rounded template I cut out the sides so that there is seam allowance both top and bottom.  The pocket itself should be larger than the opening by about 1/2-5/8" top and bottom.


I like to use a knit for the binding so that there is no need to cut bias strips, but if using a woven you will need about 10-12" of 2" bias cut fabric.  Pin the bias strips to the fronts, right sides facing.

I sew it on using a 1/2" seam allowance then turn the strip to the back, over the seam allowance (don't trim!) and top stitch it.  Cut away any excess on the back and edges.

Finished bias strip.

 I audition pocket shapes (I have several I keep in a file) to see which size and shape looks best.  Above I position it under the side front to see how it looks.  For this pocket back I used a gray velveteen that was stenciled by my friend, Sharon.  I used it for the buttonholes, too.


Before sewing it onto the garment I serge the edges of the pockets.

Sew it onto the garment right side of pocket to wrong side of garment.

Finally, I sew the side seam, being sure to catch the side edge of the pocket.


Close up of a wonky buttonhole.  Marla, I promise to get better at this!!


And here's my new baby.  A sweet little Singer Featherweight.  I bought it at a garage sale for $50!  Another $125 to tune her up and she's a gem.

22 comments:

  1. All of it is just beautiful, Gayle! What a wonderful fall!

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    1. Thank you, Shams! I've been reading your Paris blog posts with delight!

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  2. I just love your sewing and the results, so professional and I love all the little extras that you add. I would like to buy the Diana Ericson tunic but unfortunately the cost of posting to the uk is as much as the cost of the pattern and I can't find any uk outlets.

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  3. awesome, just beautiful. Question, what type of camera do you use?

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    1. I use an iPhone. No special attachment or anything. I just make sure there's plenty of light.
      And thanks for the compliments!

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  4. I so look forward to your posts to see the beautiful, creative projects you have made/or are working on. Just fabulous!! All of it........and what a lucky find...that little, dear Featherweight! I have two, but both black. Love them!!

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  5. I always enjoy seeing posts and new creations from you. You are a true fabric artist! Karen

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    1. I've always considered myself more of a maker than an artist. But maybe I should rethink that! Thanks!

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  6. Thank you for the pocket tutorial - very helpful. Much more comfortable than inseam pockets and an opportunity to add interest.

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    1. Glad you liked it. I pretty much use this pocket all the time now.

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  7. Just beautiful! And here is a really dumb question -- do you make a functional buttonhole under the sample bound one, and just attach it on top?

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    1. Not a dumb question at all. In fact, I wanted to describe how you do that part of it but it would have been so complicated I didn't think my teaching skills were that good. Basically you make a large hole in the back, sew a lining around it, turn the lining to the right side where it gets covered by the patch and the back then has a clean finish. I hope that makes sense!

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    2. It's like a little welt pocket opening. I do like how you can use the square facings as a part of the design with the triangle welts.
      My machine buttonholes are ghastly; the welted ones are easier for me to do properly.

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  8. Oh, Gayle! I've been meaning to write to tell you how much I enjoy your blog posts and this one was a doozie! Thanks for the pocket tutorial. It was beautifully presented and I'm going to use it on the very next jacket/coat I make. I made something like it from a Marcy Tilton pant pattern, but yours is even simpler. Thanks again for all the effort you put into your posts. It is much appreciated.
    Kathie

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    1. Oh Kathie, I'm touched by your comments. I so appreciate them. You're right, I did take my first pocket pattern from that Marcy pant pattern.
      Thanks for tuning in! I'll start following your blog, too. Love what you write about and sew...plus your four legged pals!

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  9. Thanks so much for the pocket tutorial. I want pockets like that on everything I wear! I just love what you do, every time.

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    1. You are so welcome. Maybe I really can do a tutorial where people can understand it! Thanks so much!

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  10. I've been lurking for a while now, enjoying your posts and projects. But I wanted to thank you for including your how to on this pocket. It was very clear and quite inspiring. Thanks too for your answer to Aleta... I was wondering the same thing about the triangle buttonhole's finish.

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    1. Thank you, Kathleen. I'm inspired to try other tutorials someday...when I think I have something to contribute that others might need.

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    2. Love your blog! You are so generous with sharing your makes and tips. This pocket design came at a perfect time. I had a tunic ripped apart to repair the bulky inset pockets which were not working. Your workaround was the missing link I didn't figure out on my own. Repair is working marvelously. Am sure I will use it again and again. very appreciative.

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    3. I'm so glad to hear this! I use this pocket on 60% of my garments now. Depending on what fabric you use for the back of the pocket it can stand out or fade away. I'm delighted to hear that others have found it useful! Thank you.

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